Jan and Cora Gordon, How Places Change: La Closerie des Lilas 1930
In "Three Lands on Three Wheels" Jan and Cora Gordon lamented how the place had changed.
Jo [Cora] Gordon had taken pity on a scruffy dog (not actually abandoned and lost, as revealed later in the story) and insisted on buying it some food.
However, the "only lighted windows of the whole broad place were those of the Closerie des Lilas.." and the cafe was no longer the place they once knew. "Formerly a simple and inviting haunt, it is now redecorated, bemirrored, and unsympathetic."
"Jo, having pushed through the doors, was momentarily dazed by the modern glare in this ancient haunt of Symbolists, Cubists and Futurists, which had merely followed the trend of most Bohemianism and had turned bourgeois on the first profitable opportunity." The cafe is still there today and still fits this description.